Thursday, October 23, 2014

gracie the vampire - part 3: the jacket

In case you missed it ... 
gracie the vampire - part 1: the dress
gracie the vampire - part 2: the slip

And now for part 3 - and I promise it's not boring like part 2 :)

Now that Gracie has a dress and a slip, she needs the next layer, which is the jacket.  Normally, this layer could also be made as part of the dress, but as I explained in part 2, Gracie needs to be able to wear the dress by itself for a couple of Halloween events where a jacket would quite simply be impractical.  Although, I'm not sure there is ever a circumstance where I can call this particular jacket "practical" :)

I drafted the pattern for this jacket based on the bodice for the dress in part 1.  I added a v-front and removed the vampire-ish collar, and I added about 1/2" to both the front and back around the armholes so the jacket would fit comfortably over the dress.  Then I drew up an elbow-length, gathered, high cap sleeve pattern and attached a half circle "skirt" for the bottom portion of the sleeve.  The skirt part of the jacket came entirely from my imagination, and I'm not sure how it even worked out correctly.  I guess fifteen years of sewing with lots of pattern modifications along the way really does come in handy ;)

The sleeves were actually kind of fun to make, although they took way more fabric than I would have thought!  I really should have taken a picture before I sewed them into the jacket, because they looked big enough for an adult's coat :)  But in the end, it was exactly the look I was going for ... you know ... the way over the top, my mom is totally crazy to have spent that much time on a Halloween costume look!

I wanted the skirt to have a lot of volume, but I didn't have a ton of fabric.  I originally bought three yards of the red satin and told myself I wasn't allowed to use any more than that :)  So I decided to cut the lining to the shape I wanted for the final look and use a combination of gathering and pleating to create a modified bubble skirt for the outer layer.  I knew that the satin with the flocked layer on top would have enough body to add the fullness I wanted without a ton of extra fabric.  Okay, if I'm being honest here, I didn't really "know" that it would have enough volume, but I hoped that it would, because I wasn't about to go back to Joann's to buy more fabric in additional to the 15 yards I already bought for this project!

For the final touches I added a velvet & satin trim along the v-front and around the neckline, and I used a frog closure right along the waistline.  I'm not sure that it really needs the closure, but I like the way it looks, so it's there to stay :)  And I already had to attach it a couple different times since I managed to put it on both upside down and sideways before I finally got it right.  There is probably a lesson to be found somewhere about not sewing after midnight, but since I'm pretty sure I'll be up again that late tonight, I don't think I've learned it yet!

Everything is from Joann's
Jacket - Red costume satin
Overlay - Black flocked rose print
Lining - Red sateen
Velvet & satin ribbon trim
Dritz frog closure - I would not recommend this closure as it fell apart after a single use


  1. This is absolutely AMAZING! I'm so impressed that you drafted it. Love the bubbly bottom bit of the jacket, the neckline trim and the frog closure - fantastic!