Thursday, November 7, 2013

tutorial - sewing the caroline dress

It's time to sew!  If you missed the first post for the Caroline Dress, go here to learn how to draft your pattern and prepare your fabric for sewing.

Sewing the pockets:

Sew the entire dress with a 3/8" seam allowance.

1. Sew the pocket to the pocket lining along the top edge, right sides together

2. Press the seam away from the pocket lining

3.  Fold the pocket in half, right sides together, lining up all the edges.  Sew around the sides and bottom, but leave an opening for turning the pocket right side out.  Make sure to backstitch on either side of the opening so you do not rip your stitches while turning the pocket.

4. Clip the top corners and trim close to the seam along the curves.

5. Turn right side out through the opening, press the edges well and (optional) topstitch about 1" from the top of the pocket.

6.  Repeat for second pocket

Assembling the dress front

7.  Pin the pockets to the dress.  I just eyeballed this step :)  I tried to keep the bottoms of the pockets parallel to the hemline and the tops an equal distance from the center and side seams.

8. Sew along the sides and bottom of the pocket about 1/8" away from the edge.  This will both attach the pocket to the dress and close the opening along the bottom of the pocket

9.  Use pins to mark the center of the skirt and 3" on either side of the center.

10. Lay the fabric wrong side up.  Bring the left side over until the center and left pin are lined up.  Crease the fabric along the fold.  Unfold.  Now bring the right side over until the center and right pin are lined up and crease that fold.  The picture shows the left crease (with notes!) to give you a visual since I'm not sure I can adequately describe this step with words :)

11. With the skirt still wrong side up, bring the center pin over the right hand pin and crease the fold.  Unfold.  Repeat for the other side by placing the center pin over the left hand pin and creasing that fold. You can see in the picture that the the skirt is creased along the original lines I drew while drafting the pattern.  Fold along the creases to make the inverted box pleat.

12. Make sure that the yoke and skirt are the same width.  If they are not, adjust the pleat.

13. Pin the yoke to the skirt

14. Sew and finish/serge the seam

15. Press the seam up and topstitch if desired

16.  Finish constructing the dress according to the directions from this post :)

Red - Chambray
Purple - Interweave Chambray in Sorbet by Robert Kaufman

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